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Costume Diva
10 October 2009 @ 01:48 pm
Hi all,

I'm getting ready to start my next project, and find that I'm slightly stuck on choosing which pattern will go with what fabric. I'm going to make a day dress out of the following fabric:
The question is should I make a simple very period accurate dress from pattern 4551 (I like the lower right hand dress...the sleeves are pretty):
Or make a prettier day dress out of pattern 3727:The hang up is that I was considering using the 3727 pattern for my purple silk from India.
Of course, I could always make up pattern 2887 out of the silk, and that would be pretty too. What do you think? Which pattern is destined to be make up from my pretty homespun purple plaid? Feel free to weigh in on the silk too, but that's a future project.
 
 
Costume Diva
18 September 2009 @ 03:45 pm
Have I mentioned before how much I hate zippers??  First of all, they have no place in reproduction clothing.  Sure, they're fine when you're using them in an every day context.  Of course, I'm making a Halloween costume that's pseudo historical for a little girl, and a zipper is required.  But actually sewing the darned things in?  Give me eyelets any day.

I was jammin' along on my costume (having put in about 5 hours total on the sewing) when I reached the zipper.  First of all, the instructions for installing the zipper are FIVE steps long!  Why, I ask you??  Just to confuse me even more.  Then, I realized that my zipper foot is still packed, which means I'm completely stuck unless I want to hand sew the darn thing in, and my handsewing skills are probably worse than my zipper sewing skills.  AAARRRGH!!!!!  Stupid zippers.

Any ideas?
 
 
Costume Diva
30 August 2009 @ 06:07 pm

Today we went to Colorado's State fair in Pueblo. I had the most fun checking out the craft arts display, which included food (cakes, canned goods, cookies, etc...), quilts, dolls, and clothing. I didn't find any historical entries, and there didn't appear to be a cake decorating contest, much to my dissapointment.
 
Perhaps the most interesting discovery this year was "Mutton Bustin." This is apparently a common rodeo and fair sport where parents willingly let their 3-6 year olds get bucked off an unsuspecting sheep. Seriously -google this! None of the kids we saw actually rode the full six seconds, but there were a surprising number of 3 year olds that made a good showing. I counted at least four. There were also a few kids that bailed out once the got on the sheep and realized maybe this wasn't such a good idea.
 
Finally, we of course ate the mandatory fair food. This year's fattiest foods that we spotted were the fried oreo cookies, fried twinkies, and fried snicker bars. We opted out of those, but did go for a bratwurst with saurkraut and the mandatory funnel cake.
 
 
Costume Diva
08 August 2009 @ 04:52 pm
Well, I'm still mourning missing Costume College, but thanks to everyone for the great photos they took!  I absolutely loved Katherine and Kendra's Mistress outfits, and Katherine's Robe de Style blew me away.  Thank goodness for the internet so I can live vicariously through others.

I have arrived in Colorado, have unloaded the truck into storage, have officially become a Colorado resident again, and am helping my husband with his job hunt.  I'm still on doctor ordered rest for the next few months (unless, of course, my new Colorado doctor disagrees), so I'm taking it easy.  I'm honestly about to start climbing the walls.  I'm seriously considering going back to get my sewing room contents out of storage (that's a lot of boxes!) because I'm in desperate need of a project.  I miss all my Tuesday Night sewing ladies already! 
 
 
Costume Diva
11 July 2009 @ 11:18 am
Hi all,

Sorry I haven't been doing any updates.  Life has intervened, and since my sewing supplies are all packed up, I don't think I'll be sewing for a while.  Yes - I said packed up.  I've been pretty sick for several months now, and my husband and I have decided to move to Colorado so that we can improve our lifestyles.  We'll be moving as soon as a few more paperwork and housekeeping matters are taken care of, but right now we're thinking early August.

This also means I've had to cancel my long anticipated trip to Costume College (I was really devastated over this one).  I'm still mourning the classes I had to pass on, and I'm no longer participating in the Charles II project.  I still have the fabric and pattern and I'm sure I'll find the time to make the project someday.

I'm going to miss the Tuesday night sewing group and the workshops in Williamsburg the most!  You guys have been great.  Luckily we have the livejournal community to keep us in touch, and hopefully we'll see each other at future Costume Cons and Costume Colleges.  Meanwhile, I'm looking for some costume connections out west if anyone knows of anything.  I hear SASS is big, so maybe that can be a costuming outlet.  I've also been thinking about going back to school so that I can pursue my true passion - any FIDM grads out there who could tell me about their experiences?  Obviously I have to get back on my feet first, and FIDM is not in Colorado so this is something I'll be thinking about over the next year with no major hurry.
 
 
Costume Diva
14 April 2009 @ 04:09 pm
I'm a first time Costume College student this year.  Can anyone help me understand the registration process a bit better?

First: do you automatically get to attend 4 classes?  If I don't get into some of the classes I request, am I assigned to one of the less popular classes, or do I just wind up with however many classes I get into.

Second: I picked out the four classes I would be most happy attending (with the idea that hopefully I'd get one or two).  However, I have a pair of classes on Friday, and a pair of classes on Sunday that have conflicting times.  Is it better to try and choose four classes that don't conflict with each other, or better to register for the four I really like with the understanding that I'd probably only get two of my selections.

Wow...for something that I'm doing on vacation for fun, this sure has me biting my nails as trying to figure out how this all works.
 
 
Current Mood: worried
 
 
Costume Diva
04 April 2009 @ 09:10 pm
A few weeks ago I went to Williamsburg to take a another Burnley and Trowbridge workshop, and I'm just now getting around to posting the photos. There were lots and lots of froofy dresses to look and and drool over, and I learned a few new tricks:

How to make your own 18th century trim (seriously...this was so time consuming, I can't ever see wanting to do this myself...but I suppose you never know just how crazy 'period correct' I might want to go some day).How to make Death Head buttons. These are really cool! Here are the ones I made. I had a much easier time with the basic four point Death Head than the six point "Astral" pattern (the one where I used two colors). I was cursing that silly button the whole time.So, enough about what I learned. Here's what came out of the Williamsburg Costume shop vault: a froofy organza cap.FROOFY apron.A pretty stomacher with lots of froofy trim.A pretty purple and white stomacher with an amazing blue and white hat next to it.A pink Polonaise with Organza trim.An amazing Robe Francaise with self trim.A froofy organza and silk trimmed robe Francaise.And the piece de resistance that I really wanted to take home with me: A FROOFY yummy hat.

I apologize for the overuse of the word froofy in this post, but it's the appropriate adjective. I thought the striped polonaise brigade might get a kick out of this.

In other news, I'm in a bit of a costuming funk. The timing couldn't be worse, with Costume Con at the end of the month, but I just can't seem to make myself get my sewing out. The only contest I've pre-signed up for is the Single Pattern competition, but I may be pulling out of it. Oh well. It will still be fun to go. I'm also getting cool invites that I'm not sure I can accept. (there's a trip to Williamsburg that I'm dying to go on, and a tea), but I think everything is falling in the middle of the week, and with no leave saved up, I'm out of luck.
 
 
Costume Diva
15 March 2009 @ 08:04 pm
Hi all,

One of my Christmas presents this year was full sized pattern for the Tudor Tailor's French Kirtle and Henrican Gown.  A snafu at the Post Office resulted in me receiving two duplicate patterns - I ordered the 'larger' sized pattern which includes US sizes 18, 20, 22, 24, 26 (check the website for actual measurements. 
I've agreed to mail the pattern to the next person in the US who orders the pattern, so you can save a bit on international shipping if you were thinking about purchasing this pattern.  You would need to let me know that you are interested (so that I can inform the Tudor Tailor who is purchasing my pattern) and then purchase the pattern directly through the Tudor Tailor Website.  The patterns are not cheap, but they're as tick as a book (I was very impressed).  Contact me to let me know if you are interested.
 
 
Current Mood: optimistic
 
 
Costume Diva
06 March 2009 @ 06:54 pm
Well, you'll probably notice I am NOT wearing a Regency Spencer. I decided not to rush the
Spencer, and wore my cashmere shawl instead. I spent a good portion of the night before decorating my bonnet, so I didn't want to pull an all nighter when I had to get up early the next day.So, here's the costuming group, all together at Dumbarton House in Georgetown. The woman in the middle wearing black is Mary Doering, the co-curator of the lovely period clothing collection we were there to visit. We loved visiting the house which was built at the beginning of the Regency era, and the gowns were lovely (no photos inside the house, unfortunately).
Here's the mandatory group shoe picture! I'm wearing the pink silk slipper in the lower right corner. A few people asked me where I got it - I found it on Amazon, but it's available at many online shoe stores. The shoe is from BC footwear and the model is called "babycakes."I loved so many of my fellow costumers' outfits. Loren, as always, is wearing an AMAZING hat, and I love her matching overgown and muff.I love how Jenny Rose used red and yellow together to make such a gorgeous ensemble.I think my favorite gown was worn by Marilee. Here, she's wearing a fabulous Pelisse that matches her gown, pictured below.Marilee is a Pastry Chef at a very chic restaurant in DC. She and the restaurant treated us to tea and pastries after our tour. We all got a sample platter of three desserts. They were some of the best I've ever had - I loved the Tiramisu, and that's saying a lot since I have rarely, if ever, met a Tiramisu that I liked.I meant to get a picture of the desserts because they were so pretty, but the were SO good that by the time I remembered to take a photo, my plate was clean, as was most everyone else's. Overall, it was a lovely day! I can't wait for our next outing.
 
 
Current Mood: pleased
 
 
Costume Diva
26 February 2009 @ 10:57 am

 

Okay, so I know I said I would only be working on Costume Con projects between now and May. I really DID try to get started on my single pattern competition entry, but I couldn't find some of the fabric I purchased for it in my fabric stash. The state of my walk-in closet, and the fact that I practically have to empty out the shelves to get to all of my stuff doesn't help.

So when I got tired of digging around in boxes, in a huff I remembered that I have a trip to Dumbarton House this weekend in Regency clothing. That pattern was within my line-of-sight, and the fabric for it is a large bolt of fabric that is contributing to the closet traffic jam. I figured a Spencer and a bonnet might help disguise the fact that my ballgown isn't appropriate daywear, and thus began yet another Costume ADD project - a Regency Spencer.
I'm using another great Sense and Sensibility pattern and making the double breasted spencer on the far right. The pieces sew together beautifully, and I think this will be a fairly simple project. I made up a toile last night out of muslin in the same size as the ball gown and was incredibly pleased to note that it was way too big (we're talking fistfulls of fabric too big). I took it down one size, but now I'm worried that it will be a bit too snug once I get all the layers put on. I'm going to have to put on my gown for another fitting tonight (not a big alteration if the front is a bit too snug), and then hopefully I can move on to cutting out my fashion fabric (the toile will be the lining). I'm using a peach cotton velvet.
 
 
Current Mood: amused
 
 
Costume Diva
22 February 2009 @ 11:58 pm
You can check out my annual and arbitrary Oscar Fashion review at costumediva.blogspot.com.  I wish the show could finish before midnight one of these years.  Enjoy the review!
 
 
Current Location: Desk
Current Mood: sleepy
 
 
Costume Diva
22 February 2009 @ 10:24 pm
So, of course the first night my instructor dragged out the side saddle is the night I decided to leave the camera at home. She HAD said I'd be riding in an English saddle for a few more lessons last time, because she didn't feel I was ready for the side saddle. I don't know what changed in between last week and this week, but I'm glad it did. We'll have to make do with photos from Dave's camera phone:I'm riding Sandy, a nice old Palomino horse (he looks much too white in these photos...he's a beautiful sandy blond). He was short too...probably about 14 or 15 hands, which made getting on and off a lot easier in the side saddle.
I like this photo...although I can almost imagine my instructor telling me to put my left heel down. I really enjoyed riding in the side saddle. I was able to trot without any problems, and managed to convey 'stop' to the horse just by rocking my weight back in the saddle. It was interesting to find out that the foot in the stirrup is doing almost nothing. It's my right leg that is keeping me on the horse, and directing the horse. The scariest part was getting down. Dave has to help me to on and off (there are apparently ways to learn it on your own, but assistance is preferred). To get off, I swung both legs onto the left side of the horse (facing away from the horse) and had to slide off with Dave holding my right hand. I just about sat in the dirt I hit the ground so hard. :) I can't WAIT for the next lesson.
 
 
Current Location: Home watching Oscars
Current Mood: bouncy
 
 
Costume Diva
17 February 2009 @ 07:52 pm
Well, the Regency ballgown is officially completed. I hemmed it last week, and wore it to George Washington's Birthday Ball at Gatsby's tavern. Dave came to the ball with me (it was Valentine's day) and I had a GREAT time dancing! I spent a good portion of the night 'costume shopping,' or admiring other lady's outfits to find out where they got their patterns/wigs/accessories. The Ball was set in the year 1799, and I'm a bit too avant-guard - my dress is more like an 1805 or 1807 dress. The lady that's in the picture with me is perfect for the year 1799:
I love her overgown, the long gloves, and the turban was perfect! I have an overgown and turban planned for this gown, but CostumeCon priorities come first until May.
Mary took this great shot of my dress from the back, and I went ahead and helped myself to it because I like how it shows off the pleats at the back of the gown.Here, Mary and I post together out in the banquet room, as we enjoy chocolate dipped dried fruit, cream puffs, and other yummy indulgences in between dances. Mary attends sewing night with me, and it was great to see a friendly and familiar face there!

Here was another great 1799 gown/overgown combination. The couple pictures is dancing the opening minuet at the Ball. It was very pretty, and I have to admit, not at all what I expected a minuet would be.Loren gets the prize for my favorite costume of the evening. It had that 'all together' look that was just perfect. Her wig is EXACTLY what 1799 hair should look like, the overgown is gorgeous silk, and the undergown is fine transparent cotton with a white embroidered hem. I thought she looked very nice. Loren and I met at the Williamsburg Riding Habit workshop - I'm apparently finally getting a good handle on the costuming community!
 
 
Costume Diva
12 February 2009 @ 11:50 am

If you could have any job in the world, what would it be?


View 501 Answers

Oh, this one is easy.  I have two dream jobs - one is to actually make a living out of sewing historical clothing.  That one's pretty obvious from my hobbies.

The other?  I would want to be a travel reviewer.  Going to resorts and on cruises to ratie them, traveling to new and exotic countries, sampling the local cuisine and markets.  OH YES!!  That would be very nice indeed.
 
 
Current Mood: bored
 
 
Costume Diva
09 February 2009 @ 11:46 am
 Another weekend, another Williamsburg workshop. This time we were learning to draft/drape 18th century riding habits. The riding habit above is one that the Williamsburg Millinery shop reproduced, and is an almost exact replica of a riding habit at the London Museum.
 I went into the class only knowing that I wanted a green riding habit, with worsted wool in hand. I had no idea what style of riding habit I wanted to make - we watched a slide presentation showing habits from the beginning to end of the 18th century. Although I loved some of the later century riding habits (especially the hats), the riding habit on display had caught my eye and I was in love with it. When the instructor asked me what I wanted to make, I pointed over to the mannequin and said "I want that." And so, the 1740's riding habit project was born.
 I took a close up picture of the back to show the pretty hand-detailed stitching, and the gorgeous point in the back of the riding habit. It's lined in the same blue silk taffeta that the waist coat is made from. I'm a little daunted at the prospect of figuring out how to drape the skirt of the coat by myself, as well as a few finishing details that I'm unsure on (cuffs, collars??).
 At the workshops, we only work on the tops - the skirts are simple and something that we can do on our own at home. We get a basic fitting basted down, and then we're expected to finish up everything on our own. This is as far as my riding habit got. I have chalked on lines on the green wool which will take out some more fabric - right now it's able to close all the way down, but I actually only want it to button down to the bust gusset. I also have sleeves, but I didn't get a picture in them. They're very narrow and fit perfectly.
 Here is my fitting partner - she had made her skirt and riding shirt ahead of time (I still have to make mine). The top was drafted by me. I think it went pretty well. I had some very minor corrections from the instructor, but otherwise I'm getting this draping thing down.
 The instructor brought along an 18th century sidesaddle was pretty neat. We were allowed to sit in in and get a feel for what it might be like. How funny that this class was only a week before I started my sidesaddle riding lessons! I don't think the saddle above would qualify as a 'safety' sidesaddle that modern ladies use, but it's still fun.
I just HAD to bring back a picture of this Lady Worsley riding hat because I just drooled over it. There were so many feathers on that hat!! I tried it on and really liked it, but I'll have to figure something else out since my riding habit will be far too early for this look. Apparently ladies didn't wear tricorns after the 1730's (if you were British, anyway). I'm thinking I might take on an Austrian persona when wearing my 1740's riding habit so that I can wear a tricorn. Marie Antoinette was pictured wearing a tricorn in the 1770's.

I'll enjoy finishing this project, but it is definitely on hold for now. I'm putting the final touches on my regency ball gown before George Washington's Birthday ball (on Valentine's day), and then it's time to start some SERIOUS CostumeCon sewing.
 
 
Current Location: Comfy chair
Current Mood: awake
Current Music: Linkin Park
 
 
Costume Diva
26 January 2009 @ 08:21 pm
I hereby declare the never-ending 18th century stays project complete!!! This is the first garment I ever made that was drafted and crafted for my measurements.
I hand-bound the edges of the stays with a very soft goat leather. The wooden bones don't poke through the leather. Any future corsets that I make with wood will have leather binding! The inside of the stays are lined in a checked linen. Apparently plaid and stripes were the most commonly found linings in 18th century stays.I picked up this handy little tool at the Williamsburg stays' workshop. It's a bodkin, and is used to help lace up your stays. Sure is a lot easier than using shoe lace plastic tips (and more period correct)So here I am modeling the corset. Caly wanted to be in the picture too. You would not generally wear a petticoat underneath the corset like I am doing, but my shift is very sheer so it's for modesty's sake.Here's the side shot. I have the perfect mid 18th century flat front. Without the flat front, you can't properly fit the 18th century gown which requires a rigid foundation.Whoa...cleavage shot. What I'm really trying to show here is the nice triangular shape that my torso has taken by wearing the stays. Again, this is part of the 18th century aesthetic. Here you can see how the corset is laced up. Rather than using a modern lacing technique (where it looks like you're tying a shoe), this corset is spiral laced. The eyelets are off center, and the corset is laced from the bottom up. This pushes everything up as you lace the corset, which is the desired effect for the 18th century. I never realized how lacing can be so important to giving the corset the right shape: this same corset looks different if I start lacing from the top and doesn't look correct. Victorian corsets are laced and tied in the middle, so that the waist is nipped in.
On an unrelated note...I've been finding old childhood photos, and I found this picture (I'm on the far left, my sister is the next one over). In one of those "as-luck-would-have-it" moments, my sister and I got to be walk-on girls for the Opera Eugene Onegin. I was nine years old. The Opera was in Europe, and this was long enough ago that the visiting opera troupe was known as the Opera of Leningrad. Wow was their costume room fun!!I loved having the little curls at the side of my head, and I thought my dress was so lady-like (my sister was very unhappy when they put her in a shorter gown and bloomers because if her age, but she was as cute as a button!). As we were leaving every night, the performers would come out in their enormous white ball gowns that seemed to stand out a mile, with lots of tulle and satin (if you've ever seen the movie version with Liv Tyler, this is toward the end where Onegin sees Tatiana at a ball and finds out she's married). I think these photos mark the beginning of my fascination with historical costumes.
 
 
Current Location: At my computer: where else?
Current Mood: excited
Current Music: techno
 
 
Costume Diva
30 December 2008 @ 11:12 pm
After devoting most of December to handcrafted Christmas presents for my family, I'm back to my costuming. It's definitely crunch time: I have a ball, a workshop, and Costume Con to work on, so I'm planning to devout quite a bit of time to sewing from now until May.
 
Just so you can see what I've been up to in December, here are photos of my family with their 'magic quilts.' The pillows unfold into quilted blankets. Above, my mother-in-law got a 'Provencal' style in blue. Everyone got a personalized quilt based off their hobbies and personalities:My sister-in-law got a kitty print pillow.
Her Husband got a hockey themed pillow
And my father-in-law (the LGB train nut) got a train themed pillow.

Right now my main focus is finishing the binding on my 18th century corset. I worked on it over the Christmas holiday (you can see my dog Caly dutifully assisting me), and I've been working on it in the evenings in front of the TV.
 
I just finished binding the top of the corset this evening: Of course, it's the easiest. I dread all those tabs on the bottom of the corset.
 
For those of you who have never used leather to bind your corset, I have to say I highly recommend it. My glover needle cuts through the leather like butter, and the leather stretches and conforms to the shape of the corset a lot better than normal fabric binding. There's the added benefit of having leather protecting you from any protruding reed bones as well. After my old corset, having a strong layer of leather in between me and the reed ends will be a welcome change.
 
 
Current Location: Home
Current Mood: determined
Current Music: You Want a Piece of Me
 
 
Costume Diva
08 December 2008 @ 08:17 pm
For some reason, despite the fact that I have rotated these pictures with my photo viewer, blogger refused to upload them without rotating them back to their original position. Sorry in advance for any cricked necks that may result from this post.
So I have finished boning my 18th century Stays. The Silly Sisters came through for me, and recommended that I replace the flimsy ash reed that just wasn't working with oval reed. What a difference that made! I feel like they're really starting to look like the real thing.Next up is binding the edges. I have 15 yards of fine white goat leather. I was apprehensive about binding the stays in leather since I had never worked with leather before, but I'm amazed at how easy the leather is to work with. I'm using a 'glover' needle, or a leather needle, which I'm sure helps. It is specially made to pierce the leather more easily. The problem I'm encountering is with my thread. My instructions recommend using silk thread, but the silk keeps raveling and bunching while I'm using it. Any ideas? Should I be waxing the silk before I start using it? I also have some more modern 'thread conditioner' I picked up at my local fabric store.As you can see I haven't progressed very far yet - I've been distracted with Christmas projects and preparations (I know, I know, excuses, excused). Overall, I think it will look very nice though. I'm using a back stitch on the exterior binding, and a slip stitch on the inside. Once all the edges are bound, the lining and straps will get sewn in.

In other news, I have really got to crank up the sewing rate because I found out last week that I got a membership to Costume College (long weekend at the end of July/start August)! That means my Charles II mistress project is DEFINITELY on. I'll want to finish trimming my 18th century Robe Anglaise before Costume College.

My sewing calendar for the next few months: finish my 18th century stays in time for my next Williamsburg seminar in January. I'll also need to bring a finished riding habit shirt and skirt (they seem fairly straight forward, and I'm not hand sewing them!). Then, in February, Gatsby's tavern is hosting George Washington's birthday ball, at which point my Regency Ball gown will make its debut. I would like to have an over robe in red velvet and a matching turban to go with it in time. Then, it's time for my Costume Con single pattern project, my vampire costume, and my secret masquerade outfit. Hmm...any chance I'll get all of this done?? It's rather ambitious, but I'll give it my best shot!
 
 
Current Location: Home
Current Mood: busy
Current Music: Numb/Encore
 
 
Costume Diva
21 July 2008 @ 10:34 am

Hi all,

I don't update my live journal very much...mostly I keep the account so I can add all of you as my friends and see what you've been up to.  Please come visit me at my blog and leave comments.  I'll return the favor!!

costumediva.blogspot.com

 
 
Current Mood: artistic
 
 
Costume Diva
26 June 2008 @ 02:03 pm
I saw in earlier posts that a few people were interested in possibly going to the fall workshops for Burnley and Trowbridge.  They just started posting their fall schedule.   They just announced an 18th Century Stay making course September 6-7 for $135, and a late 18th century gown workshop November 14-16 for $150.  Is anyone interested in going and making this our own mini mid-atlantic costume college?
 
 
 
 

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